Disclaimer: Some of the photos were taken by my teammates.
Futte our safari driver + guide came to pick us up in the morning. Rama was our cook. We set off to Arusha to pick up the lunch boxes. Road works delayed us a bit. Tree pruning in Arisha made it worse. We ended up having our breakfasts at a mexican restaurant in Arusha. Our jeep was stopped by policeman on the way on frivolous accusation that we didnt have company sticker on the jeep body. Futte gave that guy some money so that we can drive off without being delayed.
Drove 2 hours before we reach Tarangire camp site. Saw zebras, elephants, hoghounds, ostriches, giraffes and cheetahs. Cheetahs spotting were especially rewarding. We went to the crew toilet instead of the newer toilets meant for the tourists. This mistake was repeated despite our experience in Horombo hut :/
Wildebeest migration in Tarangire
Video of wildebeests crossing the road at Tarangire
Elephant rubbing tree in Tarangire
Zebras
Grant's Gaselle
Thomson's gazelle
Cheetahs with their the distinct tear marks
Dinner was in the dark. i asked guide Futte what was his most scared moment. According to him, the most scary moment was two weeks ago at Serengeti. A pair of lion couple decided to have honeymoon fun at the side of a narrow bridge. He has no other way but to use the bridge to go back to the camp site. When he slowly steered his vehicle across the bridge, he could see the lion having fun up close. The lion was not too happy about being interrupted of course and Futte came face to face, across the vehicle window, with the lion. The moment he managed to cross the bridge, he sped away.
I also asked him what was the stupidest thing tourists ever do in his guided trip. He told me in Ngorongoro, a female tourist went down the vehicle without notify him, and wanted to do small business. She didn't notice that there was a lion just about 10m away at the road side. Futte quickly asked him in low voice what the f*** she was going, and ordered her back to the vehicle at once.
Futte admitted that any guides/drivers coming to the safari first time, will get hopelessly lost. No vehicle is supposed to stay beyond 6pm but newbie drivers/guides sometimes did that, and got lost once the night fall. They will use intercom to inform the ranger office, and all vehicles in the vicinity by other guides will started to venture out to locate the lost driver. In the safari, everyone is supposed to help out one another in times of need.
We could hear the sound of hyenas when we were sleeping.
The next day, we went for another round of driving before dismantling the camps. Futte told us the rangers spotted lions near our camp sites last night.
Many birds seen.
Vulture eating its food.
Water drinking session near Tarangire. It was quite a sight to see all animals came together and quench their thirst.
Futte trying to catch a bird at the camp site.
Our safari vehicle parked in Tarangire. It was here that the tent poles were not packed inside the jeep and caused us trouble later on.
Today is long long drive to Serengeti via Ngorongoro. We stopped near lake Manyara to have our lunch boxes and soda before heading to Serengeti. Futte was driving real fast. We stopped over at Naabi Hill for permit processing. I went up the hill for panorama view of the plains.
On the way to Serengeti, we saw the masai people and their villages. Some of them were selling honey along the road side. Hyenas and jackals were spotted as we sped towards Nyari camp site, our camp site for tonight. There are many camp sites inside Serengeti, some are so ulu (remote) that you are left alone with the animals, with no amenities. Our camp site is one of the more popular ones cos it has many amenities.
Road sign and junctions in a huge maze.
Seen on the way to the camp site, late afternoon.
Reached Nyari in the dark. While setting up the tents, Futte realised that the poles meant for the 2-men tent were missing. End up he had to set up his own tent for two of us, while he sleep in the car for the night.
A cold water shower in the camp site toilet chased away all the dust - totally refreshing. Must thank Sk for insisting that. A refreshing treat before dinner.
The cook Rama was good. Instead of the usual fried stuff (which we dreaded much in our Kili trekking trip), he made us stew after we explained to Futte what we like for our meals.
We could hear the unmistakable hyenas howling during our sleep. They were never far from us. Hence the no-going-toilet-alone rule.
We drove out at 6ish the next morning. Early heh? We were one of the last jeep to leave the camp site. Those riding the expensive hot air balloons must wake up even earlier to reach the launch site.
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Hippos bathing in the pool in the early morning
First surprise for the day: We saw lions - first a male lion catching gazelle as its breakfast. This lion was quite lucky to be able to catch the prey alone. Gazelle run much faster than lion, so hunting alone seldom mean success for them. We couldn't take much pictures of the kill as the tall grass blocked our view of the gory scene. All we know is the gazelle didn't run out of the grass.
The next spot was even more interesting. We saw a mother and 3 playful cubs resting near the trees. They decided to cross the road half an hour later and we got good pictures.
Elephant
Crocodile
As if that is not enough...there was a male lion that just rest under a tree...
The lion started to walk towards the gazelle via the narrow bridge. Our jeep stopped right at the narrow bridge and became the photographic subject of other jeeps. It walked past next to our vehicle on the bridge and started its hunt.
After lunch we went to spot leopards. luck was again on our side. A leopard on the well hidden in the tree decided to hop between branches to another comfortable spot. We captured that motion. We were contented that day.
Can you see the leopard?
Rare photographic opportunity.
Baboons
Most beautiful sunset saw near the camp site, at the end of the day...
A new day at Serengeti, good morning giraffes!
We saw lions making love. Brief but frequent intercourses for 7 days for the couple after the couple had stuffed themselves with food enough to last for the entire honeymoon period.
Buffalos
Another lion
Nyari camp site
Drove off to Ngorongoro. Futte still drive us to see some lions before heading to the gate for permit application. The permits taken almost an hour this time.
The lion has a collar for tagging.
Giraffes seen on the way. We also saw the Masai people and their village.
A Masai shephard
Safari guide driving
By the time we arrived at the camp site, it was almost dark. So many tents in this small campsite! Cold due to the elevation. We were at the rim of a huge crater. This campsite has sockets for charging our devices as well as warm water for shower. We no longer need to worry about wild animals as the animals were all inside the crater. We can pee at night worry free.
The next morning we had an early breakfast while enjoying a spectacular sunrise.
Scenery seen while driving into the crater from the camp site
Masai shepherd
Driving into the crater lake
Groundhogs. Notice that they have to bend their fore limbs to eat.
Flamingos near the crater lake. We couldn't drive near.
Hippos
We saw rhinos at the far end but couldn't get near, no off-road driving allowed.
Sk felt the urge to pee but it was too dangerous to pee where we were. Futte drove us to the dinner table mountain (old peak of ngorongoro before the volcanic eruption many million years ago). We saw lions chasing zebras from the high ground. On the way down from the hill we spotted hyena passing the motion, then crossed the road.
Our good luck with lions never seem to end. 3 males and 1 female sun bathing by the road side. Our jeep next to them, among the row of jeeps. i asked Futte to move on. Just when our jeep engine came to roaring, the lions suddenly rose and slowly walked on the roads. One male lion even peed on a jeep next to us, given us good view of him doing his small business.
We went back to campsite for lunch and packing. A final panorama viewpoint on top of the crater before the 3-hour drive back to Arusha and another 1.5 hours to Moshi. Finally back to our home sweet home Hibiscus.
Panorama view point
One the way back to Arusha
Beer after we returned to the civilisation. One beer for each place we went, Kili as well as Serengeti.
The next day, we did a coffee tour at Materuni village.
Coffee bean
Sk trying out coffee bean pounding.
After the coffee tour, we went to Materuni Tours office. Picture with both our trekking guide Ramada and safari guide Futte and the boss of the company, Ambrose. Ambrose was showing us the new tents he bought from Germany for use in the next season.
Sk and i had dinner at Mr Feng's Chinese Restaurant. He was actually the boss of Panda Restaurant and closed it down after car accident. Once he recovered he set up this restaurant but left the panda restaurant sign board untouched. Had sk and i stick to our plan of eating in Panda Restaurant, we would have missed our chinese food tonight - there will be no restaurant there.
Mr Feng restaurant is also a bed and breakfast place. He organises hiking and safari tours for clients as well. After the dinner, we made take away orders for tomorrow lunch with him. He recommended us some choices for easier handling tomorrow.
Futte came and send us to the airport, surprised! He was again stopped by police closer to the airport junction for using private car to send clients to the airport. He let them detain his licence and refuse to compromise. He sent us to the airport and settle with those policemen later.
Kili seen from the window on the left hand site... finally.
Qatar airways flight back to Doha was not smooth. We got stucked in Zanzibar for 6 hours due to tyre pressure problem. No wifi and no aircond, all stucked in a rundown cafeteria waiting to board the plane once it is repaired.
Zanzibar is a beautiful sea paradise. It used to be slave trading port and have thick history.
Beautiful birds seen at the 3 Safaris. If there are errors in the names, please feel free to let me know.
The Northern White-crowned shrike
Gray-headed kingfisher
Fischer's lovebird
Southern Ground Hornbill, seen in Tarangire.
Ostrich in Tarangire.
Grey crowned crane seen in Tarangire, National symbol of Uganda.
Superb starling, probably the most beautifully coloured of all the birds in Tarangire.
White-headed Buffalo weaver
Von der Decken's Hornbill
Secretary bird
Kori bustard
Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu seen near Nyari camp site at Serengeti.
Route we took in Tanzania. From the Kili international airport to Moshi (1.5h), then Moshi to Kilimanjaro (1h), then back to Moshi. Tarangire via Arusha, followed by Serengeti via Ngorongoro, then back to Ngorongoro for one night, before returning to Moshi via Arusha. Kilimanjaro is the international airport in between Moshi and Arusha. Trekkers are normally based in Moshi, safari tours start from Arusha. There are smaller domestic airports at Serengeti, Arusha to ferry time and comfort conscious tourists from town to the safari or Zanzibar.
Flight route by Qatar Airways
Thanks for reading. Here are some of my thoughts on this trip.
1. Temperature in Moshi and the safari has been comfortable, partly because of its elevation. The sun was glaring in some parts but the temperature was ok.
2. Kili expeditions normally based in Moshi, safari expedition based in Arusha. Kili airport is in between these 2 towns. There is a road widening project carried out by by Chinese contractor so that the road between Arusha and Moshi can be upgraded which leads of traffic diversion and dusty condition.
3. Dusty. Everywhere was dusty. I bought a scarf in Moshi, good thing I have it.
4. I quite like the ginger ale available in Moshi. There are two different brands, one green bottle and one is black colour. I like the green one more cos smaller bottle, easier to finish.
5. Colourful birds are everywhere in the safaris.
6. Binoculars are important. I should have brought one.
7. You can actually fly to the safaris using propeller plane and save some time. Also, even though the animals can roam freely between Kenya and Tanzania, driving across the two countries in the safari is quite a lengthy and difficult business. Most people fly.
8. We didnt get to see the great migration. Reason for the 2nd visit.
9. It was silly not to summit Kili. I will be back.
10. I like Tanzania. Nobody smokes. No cigarette butts everywhere. No cigarette adverts billboards. Simply love it.
11. Stopping cars and ask for money using stupid excuses are not the way to go. I hope they change.
12. Recently saw a Qatar promo to Kili at 1700. It was 1000 cheaper than....ouch! Why didnt the promo happen before our trip??
13. I must admit Tanzania coffee is quite good. Coming from a non coffee drinker...
14. Dont wear your expensive mechanical watch up Kili. You have been warned.
15. You are not allowed to bring bottle water into Kili. Water treatment pill is therefore a must.
16. Fleece liner for my sleeping bag was my saver in Kili.
17. Their handicrafts, hand-made handbags are actually very nice. Bright coloured and eye-catching design. If you can spare some cash, shopping is quite fun in Tanzania. The wood carvings were good too.
18. Traffic jam in Arusha is almost a given. Slow moving vehicles.
19. Learn to set up tents, it is actually quite simple these days. That way you can set up the tents yourself while the guide and cook can work with other chores.
20. If the elephants are hesitant to cross the road, off your car engine. It will give them assurance that you wont run them over.
21. Yes, you can drive your own vehicle inside the safaris. GPS might be your best friend.
22. There are camp sites that are so ulu (remote) that you are probably the only one camping there. Good luck to you.
23. There are hostels near the park entrance at US20 a night. There are also expensive safari lodge that charge US1000 or US2000 a night.
24. Tipping is almost compulsory.
25. African ground nuts are tasty. If you happen to go there, please help me buy some, i miss them so much!!!
26. Socket and plugs are the same as Singapore's.
27. Mosquito nets available above beds, remember to lower them down before you sleep, and check for holes, patch them.
28. Lunch boxes with dry, hard fried chicken, love them or hate them, they are here to stay. Be it Kili or safaris.
29. There may not be nails/hangars in the bathroom of safari to hang your clothes when you bathe. Look for the right cubicle before you strip off.
30. Ngorongoro safari is the one with the most amenities, and have charging sockets. It is also the most crowded camp sites. There are lotsa dried zebra shits on the ground as zebra roam the camp site freely.
31. I wore 2 layers of socks on the summit night, toes still frozed. Damn.
32. We heard male & female chatting plus showering sounds from the Horombo hut shower cubicle in the male toilet.
33. Sand flies in Tarangire can penetrate your clothes and sting you! Wear a wind breaker.
34. The permit application at the safari HQ can take a long time due to connection problem or simply too many visitors. Be prepared for a long wait.
35. Singaporeans do not need visa to enter Tanzania.
36. Phone charging can be done at the ranger posts near the huts, but need to pay. Local guides and tourists like us paid very different price.
37. Street lights are only available in the main town of Moshi, not near where our bnb was. Good to have a torch at all times.
38. There are shortcuts when you trek down Kili. Look at the path of porters before you blindly follow the main route meant for ascending. It will save you much time.
39. We saw visible difference in the blood oxygen level between trekkers who took Diamox and trekkers who don't.
40. Typically one completes Merangu in 5 days, but we added one day to let the sore legs rest.
41. Tanzanians have two names. One their school name, one their ethnic/religious name. The country spared no effort in integration. Giraffe is their national symbolic animal.
I wrote an article on this trip to Singapore Chinese newspapers Lianhe Zaobao, it was published on 29 Mar 2018. Here is the digital version of the article.
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